These were tough to install. I already had the Kury rack and spoiler, so the holes were already there. My previous installer stripped the allen head bolts and now I see why, so it started out difficult. What I found was that I had to not just enlarge the holes but enlarge them at the angle of the rack legs, then it got a lot easier. Also be sure to cover your trunk against scratches and put something over your open bike for dropped bolts and risers. Two more hands would have helped. Finally, when time to tighten up I used star head drill bits in my allen head bolts. They worked beautifully. No stripping.

I did not install my luggage rack for over a year because the clearance between the luggage rack and spoiler was so close you could not fit your hand under the rack to wash the top of the trunk.
Glad I waited now, sounds like when you space the mounting up this far it changes the mounting holes, go figure.
Taping the trunk lid to avoid scratching is a must.
Centering the luggage rack is not easy with nothing to hold spacers and grommets from moving around.
The tape did provide the traction needed to get the job done with a few explicative words that seemed to help with the process.
I decided to use a small drop of Loctite because of the vibration the fasteners will encounter.
Over two years now after install, very happy with the end result.

I had puchased these and was told that I would be able to remove rack and install. Not the case when I installed the rack would not line up with the risers. So did not use them. Maybe would work fine if installed when purchased the rack and install at the same time. Will try again this winter, was told had to ream out the holes from orginal rack. Little worried about doing this.

Installed on my 2012 GoldWing ABS. Not much to say they look good and do what they were made to do..

Installed on 2012 ABS GL1800. I'm adding this info for those that have a 2012 and were wondering what will fit. I will review 27 items that I installed on my 2012.

A must have and you should add these during the original install so you don't have to reem out previous mounting holes.

I did not install these last year when I first put the Kury rack on...bad idea to wait. I had to drill out the original holes to allow the rack to fit after the risers were added. The holes are closed and sealed by the washers, but they are much bigger than I would like, although i do not anticipate any problems. I added the risers because our rack bag was rubbing the clearcoat on the trunk lid and I expect this to resolve that issue.

The reason I don't give 5 stars is that the rear screws for the risers were too long. When I screwed them in, they stopped before the rack was tightened. Fortunately, I had kept stick-on rubber washers from the original installation. I used these in the inside of the trunk lid in addition to the washers provided and was able to tighten those screws completely.

Installed these with the kuryakyn luggage rack, & they really look great, Plus it gets it off the spoiler to where you can clean it a little easier. & again fast shpmt. from wingstuff.

Received these yesterday with the rest of my order. Fast delivery. Installed these with the luggage rack Kuryakyn. Really makes the difference. Thanks Wingstuff and others reviews.

I installed these with my rack to clear my spoiler and they fit great. They also allow you more hand room to clean that area of my bike. The gasket washers seal great and I have had no issues with water getting in my trunk. I would install these even if I didn't have a rear spoiler just to have the extra hand room for cleaning. Price was OK and they are a quality item.

Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . .

OEM Spoiler
1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery
2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat.
3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above).
4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part.
5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side.
6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely.
7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler
8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags.
9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through
10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike
11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk
12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid..
13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights.
I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great.

Luggage Rack and Risers.
1. Disconnected the battery again
2. Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack
3. Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit.
4. Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas.
5. While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape.
6. Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen.
7. Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then with a ¼” bit per instructions. Approximated the angles as suggested but am sure that was not perfect.
You do not need to drill through the inner trunk liner (as suggested by others this site). I used the shorter screws that came with the risers and the longer screws that came with the Luggage Rack – worked fine. I didn’t have star washers so just used the ones that came with the Risers. If I were a patient person, I would have waited until I could get these. I will re-do before I put any weight on the Rack because the existing washers just don’t seem like they will help at all.
8. Inserted screw, metal washer, and small rubber washer through hole. Screwed into Luggage rack partially.
9. Repeated for the other holes and then tightened them all. I only tightened so that the small rubber washer compressed a little but did not over tighten.
I’m amazed that I git this right with no hassle. It all looks great but you’ll need to be careful when closing the trunk now since it is heavier. I’ll be looking for something to cushion where the trunk lid meets the trunk. I’m thinking about those rubber dots that are used on kitchen cabinet doors.

Hope this is helpful. Remember to wait for a rainy day and take your time. Ride safe.